法国美食散文

篇一：法国巴黎美食

关键词：法国巴黎美食

标题：法国巴黎你不可错过的美食

法国美食在整体上包括这几大方面：面包、糕点、冷食、熟食、肉制品、奶酪和酒。这些是法国饮食里不可缺少的内容。法国人习惯用西餐，浪漫的法国菜、浪漫的法国餐，有很多细节值得你慢慢品味。法国莱以其美味可口出名，且菜肴种类繁多，烹调方法独特。欧洲的佳肴几乎都是法国人烹制的，这是因为欧洲第一流的大饭店或餐馆所雇佣的大厨师多半是法国人。他们对饮食的讲究程度足以与我们中国人相媲美，甚至把饮食视之为艺术这点上还胜我们一筹。来跟着众信小游一起看看，法国都有哪些好吃的你不可错过。

可丽饼

可丽饼是法国的传统小吃，基本上有咸、甜两种口味。如果你到传统可丽饼小摊点餐，主餐就是咸可丽饼，甜点就是甜可丽饼，饮料当然是配上最有地方色彩的苹果酒。

可丽饼的材料相当简单，饼皮不外是面粉、水、鸡蛋和奶油，有的还加入少许啤酒酵母增添香气。至于内馅可精彩了，各式各样的家常食材，包括鸡蛋、火腿、奶酪、洋菇、西红柿、鲑鱼、牛肉等等，任意组合。

如果你到一家可丽饼小摊，觉得菜单上的搭配不甚满意，可以直接告诉老板理想的组合方式，通常只要手边有现成材料，没有做不出来的。

马卡龙

去巴黎一定得尝的法式甜点就是马卡龙( M a c a r o n ) 。甜品店的连锁品牌很多， L a Duree是传统法式甜点的第一选择，Le Notre则是法国糕饼新派始祖，Pierre Herme有巴黎最棒的马卡龙Macaron。Angelina的“勃朗峰”和热巧克力也深受甜点爱好者的欢迎。

小声：这个甜点还有个名字叫做少女的酥胸//////V//////

帕尼尼

帕尼尼这种长条形的意大利三明治是意大利人继披萨之后，征服挑嘴的法国人的另一项简便轻食。它是一条长形的白面包夹馅，和法国长棍面包做的三明治有点像。

馅料选择也不少，想吃清淡一点的，可以点马兹瑞拉起司夹西红柿。肉食主义者的选择从牛肉、鸡肉、羊肉、烟熏腊肠到类似麦当劳的煎牛肉饼都应有尽有。

奶酪火锅

传统的萨瓦火锅是用高山奶酪配以白酒在锅中煮沸，直到奶酪完全溶解，就可以用面包片蘸着香浓的火锅汤开始大快朵颐了。

不同的地区会用不同的奶酪来制作这道法式名菜，因此在法国各地您都能品尝到地道的却又味道各异的奶酪火锅。

布列塔尼薄饼(Crêpe)

分甜味(sucre)和咸味(Salé)两种，一般售价2-5欧一个， 也有贵到1 0 欧的街头小店。R u e d eMontparnasse可以说是Crêpe一条街。

比利时方块薄饼(Gauffre)

法国北部小吃，牛奶，奶油，糖为主要原料。

法式三明治(Sandwich)

法式长棍剖开，里面夹火腿，生菜，番茄，奶酪，金枪鱼等。注意法棍外面比较硬，不一定能适应。

法式蜗牛

法国蜗牛是法国著名的菜肴，要烹制好它可不是一件容易的事。法国人每年大约要食用3500吨的蜗牛，在重大的节日里，特别是在圣诞节，蜗牛更是不可缺少的菜式。

法式香酥鹅肝卷

篇二：法国饮食英文版

法国饮食文化

French cuisine is extremely diverse, with only the Chinese having similar variety in their food. This variety is supported by the French passion for good food in all its forms, France's extraordinary range of different geographies and climates which support the local production of all types of ingredients, and France's long and varied history. In many ways, an understanding of the culture of French food is an understanding of France itself.

Meals range from the very basic, such as the traditional baguette plus cheese plus inexpensive wine, to very elaborate affairs that can involve a dozen courses and different wines consumed over several hours. Obviously, the latter type of dining is exceptional for most people. However, it is this more sophisticated dining which is typically found in "French restaurants" outside France, giving many f

It is common in much of France to take a two hour break for lunch, with many working parents (particularly in villages and smaller towns) returning home for lunch. In some areas, mainly in the south of France, even longer lunch breaks are taken. Due to the long lunch break, businesses which close for this period typically reopen around 2PM or so and then stay open until about 7PM.

Regional influences on French food

Almost all the famous French dishes are regional specialities, some of which have become popular throughout France (such as Coq au Vin and Foie Gras) while others are mainly enjoyed in the regions in which they originate. Although regional specialities are often offered throughout France, the quality of ingredients and preparation is often superior in their region of origin.

Each region, in addition to boasting local specialities, also has a general style of cooking and choice of ingredients. For example, in Provence the food typically features olive oil, herbs and tomatoes. The evolution of regional cooking styles has been influenced by:

Local availability

The French, a nation of gourmets, know that the best food is made from local ingredients, which are fresher and of better quality than items which have been transported long distances. Consequently, coastal regions (such as Brittany and Normandy, on the northwest coast of France) will favour sea fish and will use it more often and in more varied ways than inland areas. Likewise, areas where fruit or herbs grow easily, will incorporate these into their local cuisine.

Neighbouring countries and immigration

Areas of France which border on other countries have incorporated some of the cuisine of their neighbours. It is not surprising to find Italian dishes near the Italian border. More notably, the French region of Alsace is similar to Germany in its food (sauerkraut is popular) and wine, partly due to it currently bordering on Germany and partly due to it having been part of Germany at various points in its history (the border has moved back and forth with various wars). In parts of the south which have a large North African immigrant population one can enjoy the cuisine which they have imported from their original countries.

History and economic conditions

The culture, lifestyle and economic conditions over a long period of time have formed the development of local food traditions. The rich meat dishes and cream sauces of Burgundy are not only due to Burgundian excellence in raising cattle, but in large part to the economic prosperity of this region over several centuries. On the other hand, mountain regions excel in firm cheeses, which allow food to be preserved over the long and difficult winters, and can be produced from mountain livestock which historically were the main means of support for many families in economically limited areas.

In all parts of France one will find a range of dishes, both in restaurants and in homes, which extends far beyond the regional specialities. However, in much of France the regional influences in terms of ingredients and cooking are marked. The most available food and the best cooking tend to be those produced from local ingredients and using local recipes. Therefore, the decision of where to visit or live in France tends to influence which types of food one will enjoy.

The French Mediterranean uses olive oil, herbs and tomatoes in many of its dishes. The cuisine of northwest France uses butter, soured cream (crème fraiche) and apples. The cuisine of northeast France (Alsace, and to a lesser extent Lorraine) has a strong German influence which includes beer and sauerkraut. Throughout the south in general there tends to be more use of vegetables and fruit (in part due to the favourable climate). Near the Atlantic coast and the Mediterranean there is a greater consumption of sea food, while inland areas favoured by rivers (e.g. the Loire valley) use more fresh water fish.

The Italian connection

Any discussion of the influences on French cuisine would be incomplete without recognising the historical contribution of Italy to the development of French cooking. In 1533, Catherine De Medicis (a Florentine princess) married Hey duc d'Orleans (who became King Hey II or France). At this point, France was not know for its food or food culture. Catherine brought an entourage of Italian chefs with her to France, who introduced to France a variety of dishes, food preparation and dining practices. Although France and Italy obviously have evolved very different food cultures, both before and since this contribution, much of France's current food culture can be traced back to this time.

Cooking styles

Every region of France has its own distinctive traditions in terms of ingredients and preparation (see France Regions for further information). On top of this, there are three general approaches which compete with each other:

Classical French cuisine (also known in France as cuisine bourgeoise).

This includes all the classical French dishes which were at one time regional, but are no longer specifically regional. Food is rich and filling, with many dishes using cream-based sauces.

Haute cuisine

It is classical French cuisine taken to its most sophisticated and extreme. Food is elegant, elaborate and generally rich. Meals tend to be heavy, especially due to the use of cream and either large portions or many smaller portions. There is a strong emphasis on presentation (in particular, vegetables tend to be cut with compulsive precision and uniformity). The finest ingredients are used, and the meal is correspondingly expensive.

Cuisine Nouvelle.

This style developed in the 1970s, as a reaction against the classical school of cooking. The food is simpler and lighter. Portions are smaller and less rich; the heavy cream sauces of the classical approach are particularly avoided. Cooking is less elaborate and quicker, with more emphasis on local and seasonal ingredients.

Cuisine du terroir.

This focuses on regional specialities and is somewhat more rustic in nature. Local produce and food traditions are the main focus.

Each of these three traditions are strongly represented in France, with each having its supporters and specialist restaurants. At the moment, Cuisine Nouvelle is less popular than it was, while Cuisine du terroir has grown in popularity in recent years.

Wine and cheese

Aside from bread and water, the most common accompaniments to a French meal are wine and cheese. Unlike other countries, in France wine is considered a standard part of everyday meals, and is neither expensive nor reserved for special occasions. With everyday meals, ordinary wines are served, although it is expected that the style of wine match the style of food.

In addition to its use in cooking, cheese is often served as a course in itself. In this case, it is served after the main meal but before dessert. This typically consists of a platter with three or four different cheeses, from which guests can slice pieces according to their preferences. Sliced bread (e.g. slices of a baguette) are typically provided at the same time.

Restaurant guides

The most famous and successful restaurant guide in France is the Michelin Guide Rouge, which has approximately 50% market share. It has enormous influence; the award of a single star by the Guide Rouge to a restaurant can add 25% to its turnover and the loss of a star can mean financial ruin for a restaurant.

The Guide Rouge is both a restaurant guide and a hotel guide, although its better known for the former. For the towns in the Guide Rouge there is a list of the main tourist attractions and for the larger towns there is a map. In addition to having one in the house it is handy to have one in the car (e.g. if you are unexpectedly delayed on a journey and need to find a good local restaurant).

Although the Guide Rouge does not provide exact details on the criteria they use for rating restaurants, there are a number of factors beside the quality of food: service, atmosphere and value are some of the other considerations. This perhaps explains our experience that not all restaurants with the same overall rating have the same quality of food, one restaurant may have tremendous atmosphere and average food while another with the same rating may have exceptional food but little atmosphere. The Guide Rouge sometimes makes a few comments under a recommended restaurant; these are worth reading as they give an indication of what aspect of the restaurant impressed the reviewer. The comments sometimes note specialities of the house, which are often the best items on the menu.

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法国的美食是非常多样的，只有中国有与之匹敌的食品种类。这些品种依附于法国人对所有形式美食的强烈爱好。法国不寻常的各种不同地理和气候条件，支撑着当地所有类型原料的生产和法国悠久多样化的历史。在许多方面上，对法国饮食文化的了解即是对法国自身的了解。

进餐类型可从最基本的如传统面包加奶酪加上低廉的葡萄酒，一直延伸到花费几个小时包括十几道菜和各种葡萄酒的复杂进餐。显然，后者餐饮类型对大多数人来说是少见的。不过，这是一种非常复杂的进餐，在法国以外的“法国餐厅”都能找到它。这种餐饮给许多外国人错误印象认为法国食品是浓重和复杂的。在事实上，大部分的法国烹饪是相当简单，它依靠高质量的新鲜食品材料和爱好制作成而不是靠复杂的食谱。

许多法国人花一两个小时吃午餐是很普遍的，许多外出工作的父母（尤其是在乡村和小城镇）都会回家吃午饭。在一些地区，主要集中在法国南部，甚至要花更长的午餐休息时间。由于长时间的午餐休息，这期间企业停业直到下午二点左右重开直到晚上七点左右停业。

区域对法国食品的影响

几乎所有著名的法国菜肴是区域特产，其中一些在整个法国流行（如红酒烩鸡和鹅肝），另一些则主要是在它们原产地受欢迎。尽管整个法国都能提供地区特产，但往往原产地的原料

质量和制作更好。

每个区域，除吹嘘当地特产外，都会有特色的烹饪风格和原料选择。例如，普罗旺斯食物通常的特点是橄榄油，草药和西红柿。区域烹调方式演变主要受以下因素影响：

本地供货

法国是一个美食民族，它知道最好的食物是由本地原料制成的，因为它们要比那些经过长距离运输的材料有着更好的新鲜度和质量。因此，海岸地区（如布列塔尼和诺曼底，在法国西北海岸）就要比内陆地区更偏爱咸水鱼，食用次数及加工方法也会比内陆地区更多些。同样，容易生长水果或草药的地区，人们将会把它们纳入到当地的日常饮食中去。

邻国和移民

与其他国家边境相接的法国地区，把一些邻国的菜谱并入到当地菜谱中，在意大利边境地区找到意大利菜是不足为奇的。更值得注意的是，法国阿尔萨斯地区其食品（酸菜很受欢迎）和葡萄酒类似于德国，一部分原因是它目前接壤德国，一部分原因是在历史上争议它一直是德国的一部分（在战争中来回移动）。在南部地区有大量的北非移民喜欢从他们原来国家带来的菜谱。

历史和经济条件

长时间的文化、生活方式和经济条件形成发展了当地的饮食传统。丰富的肉类菜肴，勃艮第的奶油酱汁不仅归因于勃艮第养牛的卓越，大部份还归因于该地区几个世纪以来经济的繁荣。在另一方面，山区有利于制作坚硬的奶酪，这些奶酪能让食物保存较长时间和度过艰难的冬天，这些奶酪能用山区牲畜做成，在历史上这些牲畜是经济有限区域大多数家庭的主要谋生手段。

在整个法国，你会发现一系列的菜肴，不论是在餐馆和在家庭，远远超出了区域特产的范围。然而，大部分法国地区的原料及烹饪都有着自己显著的特色。最受用食品和最佳烹调术往往是那些利用当地原料和烹饪技法做成的。因此，决定在法国何处参观或居住，往往会影响到人们将享用哪些种类的食物。

法国地中海地区在其许多的菜谱中使用橄榄油，草药和西红柿。法国西北地区菜谱中使用黄油，酸奶油和苹果，法国东北菜谱（阿尔萨斯，洛林较小范围内）受到德国很强的影响，这包括啤酒和酸菜。在整个南部地区，一般往往会更多地利用蔬菜和水果（部分归因于有利的气候）。大西洋海岸附近和地中海地区对海鲜食品有很大的消耗量，而靠近河流的内陆地区（如卢瓦尔河谷）则更多食用淡水鱼。

与意大利的联系

任何关于法国烹饪所受影响的讨论若没有涉及意大利对法国烹饪发展的历史贡献都将是不完整的。1533年，凯瑟琳梅第奇（佛罗伦萨的公主） 与奥尔良亨利公爵结婚（后成为国王亨利二世） 此时，法国的食品和饮食文化还不为人知。凯瑟琳随行带来的一位意大利厨师给法国引进了各种菜肴、食品制备及用餐方法。尽管在这一贡献前后所有时间里，法国和意大利明显地演变成了非常不同的饮食文化，但法国目前很多饮食文化皆可追溯到这个时期。

烹调方式

篇三：文字与感官的交错——我看法国美食书

文字与感官的交错——我看法国美食书 我看法国美食书 文字与感官的交错 记得大学时，有一回， 当时中文系里头教文学理论 课的教授龚鹏程提到，他对很多事物的体认与了解， 常常来自于阅读。他说，不管是一曲音乐、一幅画作、 一处景致，即使曾经实际亲身领略经验，却往往不及 直接阅读一段描绘文字，要来得感受深刻。 而当时的我，正深深浸淫陶醉于阅读里、一周动辄 可以读上近十本书，听得此言，自是频频称是深以为 然。没料到后来，从事美食旅游生活写作，真正成为 此类文章的生产者，需得将眼所见、耳所听、鼻所闻、 舌所尝、身所触、心所动所感，一一经由纸笔键盘具 体贴切精微地描摩刻画述说状写出来；这才发现，文 字，与实体景致物事和感官领会之间的或离或近、或 两向对立、 或交互相生关系，着实远非当年犹是学生、 才正开始透过书与文字看这人间这世界的我，所能轻 易了解掌握的。 以文字描述物象自然是难的。特别以美食为例，一 段令人难忘的美食经验，多半极饱满而丰富地，在色、 声、香、味、触等每一种感官领域里，都有着多层次 的呈现、演化甚至延伸。体验的当时或许百感千思流 转交集，震慑悸动不能自已；事后，再如何想以具象字句捕捉再现当时种种，也总觉隔靴搔痒， 无法尽说。 但相对地， 我自己却也觉得，每一段美食或旅行经历， 总是在诉诸文字书写与发表之后， 才算真正臻于完成， 甚至，在记忆里生命里，达于永恒。而在每一段旅行 或美食体验的之前或之后，也常因着透过相关书籍数 据的阅读，遂更进一步增加了当时感受感动的细致度 与强度。 我想是，透过文字的描述之后，原本抽象不可捉摸 的物事，往往因而从此有了清楚可识、可思考、可讨 论、可流传、可发展、可跟随、可大可远可长可久的 面目身段，以及位置与意义。——我猜，这或许正是 当年龚老师所努力着要告诉我们的事。 而这里头， 我认为， 相较于其它许多国度的饮食与 料理文化，法国美食，由于特殊的民族个性与讲究使 然，整体在学问架构、理论体系、评鉴传统、与审美 方法上，一路建构发展得极其完备完整；遂而尤其成 为世界美食领域里，颇能够清晰凸显体现出这种美食 与文字间的相互关系的一种典型。 也因此，撇开纯粹的指南、评鉴、报导、理论书不 谈，近两年内，以我个人素来较偏爱的，有观点有故 事有心情有感怀有洞见有人味的散文式美食书写而言，便有许多次极美好的美食阅读经验，都发生在法 国美食书之上。比方同样出自美国人之手的《周日的 午宴—法国美食的故事》、《

油炸法国—法兰西的生 活文化》。 《周日的午宴》由醉心法国料理文化、被书中人物昵 称为“法国的儿子”的 Mort Rosenblum 执笔；其借着 美联社记者身份，深入法国各地区、各荒山原野间， 采访形色食材食品种植养殖制作者、 米其林星星主厨、 甚至米其林餐饮评鉴指南的幕后执掌者；近乎地毯式 地，与黑松露猎人一起牵着狗儿步入深冬的森林间、 陪着生蚝养殖者浸入名为“Claire”的冰冷生蚝培养 池水里、甚至和刚刚被摘掉一颗星星的沮丧大厨同桌 把盏慨叹米其林评审员的来去无迹难以逆料……；而 也在这样的过程中，涵藏在法国美食背后的，人们所 付出的种种努力、坚持、追求极致的愿心、一往无前 的热情，以至在时代变迁中难免的挫败或失落，也随 之一一历历展现读者眼前。《油炸法国》的调子轻松 些。嫁给法国老公、也具有记者身份的作者 Harriet Welty Rochefort，除了个人采访与观察所得外，更融 入了自己于常日家庭里头吃饭下厨上市场过生活的闲 情点滴；并经常以诙谐的口吻，凸显出美法国民间完 全大相径庭的美食态度。令读者得以从中窥看到法国常民饮食生活里，极为平实家常，却格外踏实认真、 格外迷人动人的一面。 同样是法国与异国间的鲜明对照， 《英国厨房征服 法国》一书，记述了英国作者 Tom Higgins 于法国美 食首善之都里昂开餐厅（以法国人眼光看，这行为应 该简直与自杀无异……）的心得与过程，极其细腻地 从餐饮经营者的立场出发， 数说法国人的美食定见 （抑 或偏见？）、习惯与行为模式，趣味横生。 由日本作者西川惠执笔的《艾丽榭宫的餐桌—美食外 交的飨宴》则提供了另一种不同的观看角度。这本书 以密特朗、这位在法国美食史上赫赫有名的老饕级法 国总统主政其间、于艾丽榭宫所举办的多场国宴餐会 为主轴，非常绵密而细致地，研究分析评论了餐宴主 题、内容、场面、历史背景，与法国料理及葡萄酒间、 和法国与各国间的政治外交间的角力关系，非常有意 思。 至于台湾人的观点， 林裕森与谢忠道的 《美馔巴黎 —品味花都小餐厅》以及谢忠道的《餐桌上最后的诱 惑》是我比较喜欢的两本。前者虽说是以类似餐饮指 南架构写成的书（据说已成为旅居巴黎的台湾人人手 一本的生活必备书），却融入了两位作者对巴黎此城 的餐厅版图与地域间的关连特性、以及对法国料理的独到观察、了解、见地与钦慕。后者，则以一贯风趣 刁钻的笔调，记述在作者的法国生活里所发生的许多 甜点体验与轶事。最近呢，叫我尤其沈醉的，则还有 以小说体裁写成的《寻找松露的人》。这其实是一

本 文学性极高的书，然而，我却很愿意倒过头来，以美 食的眼光重读一次：书中主人翁卡巴萨，在痛失爱妻 之后，发现透过松露的力量，可以让忧伤的现实与梦 境恍惚交错，与妻子间的回忆与爱情于是得以在梦里 重续。而也在这样的故事背景下，作者 Gustaf Sobin 以大量的篇章，巨细靡遗地描绘有关松露的一切：从 早春时分鹊鸟筑巢痕迹觉察出松露的隐隐然酝酿，八 月夹带冰雹的暴雨预告丰收的吉兆，夏末在出现如囊 肿或鸡爪痕迹的土壤上洒下麦种以为标记，冬收时节 随着苍蝇的盘旋飞舞、依照传统须来回三次后才屈膝 土上一面用力以嗅觉追索着、一面「朝那芳香馥郁的 所在挖去」；然后，仪式一样的，照习俗将松露和鸡 蛋一起静置三天，再将二者轻柔地拌炒成芳香四溢的 松露炒蛋， 然后，在飘忽浓烈无可名状的神秘香气里， 缓缓进入梦境…… 我觉得，在这近乎铺陈、歌咏的书写里，将松露这 项向来予世人无限好奇与想象的法国梦幻级食材，淋 漓尽致地铺叙刻画、继而无穷繁衍增生至近乎神性、形而上的曼妙境界。 我想，美食文字发展至此，真真可说是，已臻出神入 化阶段了。 书目： 《寻找松露的人》 Gustaf Sobin 著 《周日的午宴—法国美食的故事》 Mort Rosenblum 著 《 油 炸 法 国 — 法 兰 西 的 生 活 文 化 》 Harriet Welty Rochefort 著 《英国厨房征服法国》 Tom Higgins 著 《艾丽榭宫的餐桌—美食外交的飨宴》 西川惠著 《美馔巴黎—品味花都小餐厅》 林裕森、谢忠道著 《餐桌上最后的诱惑》 谢忠道著